Saturday, March 31, 2012

Leaving sunny quiet Mui Ne for the rainy college party scene of Nha Trang?

My last few days  in Mui Ne were good ones! Spent the morning lazing around at the beach while waiting for the wind to pick up to do some kite surfing. Kite surfing mid afternoon, a little yoga in the early evening and then some dinner and relaxing by the beach. Honestly, life couldn't get much better. After the constant dormitory style hostels during my stay in Australia, my small private bungalow, my book (I started reading The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo series, and I am already on the third...sooo  good), and the beach made Mui Ne the perfect stop at the perfect time in my journey in Vietnam. 

However, my being sick has kept me on a bit of a tight schedule and I must continue north. My next stop would be Nha Trang, another beach town a bit more bustley  but  said to still be very nice. What I did not think to consider is the weather in Nha Trang. Apparently when Nha Trang gets the rain, Mui Ne only gets wind and waves. Low and behold I arrived to a very rainy Nha Trang and stayed at a very loud hostel. I decided that this wasn't quite the Vietnam that I wanted to see (although I met some nice people and played a very silly drinking game at the local bar) so I booked a boat trip for the next  day and a night bus out to my next destination Hoi An for the next night. 

After the boat trip, which ended up being a great time, I had to  find my bus booking office. This is always interesting because I got my open ended bus ticket while lost in Saigon so I ended up with the local bus  service rather than the tourist one. This means that it is always an adventure to find the booking office, but I really enjoy the journey and feel that it actually gives me a great way to see the more real side of whatever city or town I  am in. This unexpected journey ended up being my favorite part of my stay in Nha Trang!

In this case I set out with all of my bags in the rain in search of the office. I had a great time! Along the way I met a very friendly 14 year old school girl who, although she did not speak much English, smiled and shared her umbrella with me as we walked and she led me in the right direction. I smiled and returned waves from children, was the photographer for a family shot  of 30 by  the beach, and even joined in  for countless photos with more peace signs than I can count with various family members. I also, finally, found  a place where they do not give you a menu or ask what you want, but instead just fill your plate for 10,000 dong...a true vietnamese dining experience! 

And the authentic experience did not end there! Unlike the tourist busses that are not only nicer, but only fit the amount of people intended for the sleeper seats, these busses cram people on the floor isles where ever they could find space. Where there are  only 3 usable seats, we slept 5 across like sardines in a can. With the exception that they did not stop for a bathroom break for 10 hours of the journey, it was a truly cultural experience I was very happy to be part of! 

It is now nearing the end of my first day of two in Hoi An and I really love the city! Not only am I rooming with an great, down to earth girl from England, but the town itself is so cute  and quaint. It has a nice french influence while still keeping true to its Vietnamese roots. The market is situated right  by the river and there is nothing better than grabbing a fresh brewed beer for 4000 dong (20 cents) and watching the market in full swing. Vendors selling fruits, vegetables, fish, and lots of small trinkets. Push carts and bamboo balances filled with all different types of food, men and woman coming on and off the river faery on their way home. My favorite thing to do when I travel is to observe the people of the country going about their every day lives. Hoi An is such a wonderful place for such observation. Tomorrow, motorbike to the marble mountains then a bike ride through the village...very excited!

Wednesday, March 28, 2012

A small turn for the worse

shortly after my last dive is where the trouble began. The only downside to the live aboard  is  that  I  had  to pay an extra  15$ for every dive that I wanted a  guide. I had met many wonderful friends on this boat and they were  not going  with guides so for the first 5 dives I went out with them. This was a  big mistake, not only did I spend more  time worrying about everyone and  where  the  boat was, on the 5th dive I had accented too quickly. I didn't think anything more about it, but did hire a  guide for the rest of  the dives. My  next  series of dives were like I had never experienced before.  My nerves were calm, my senses were completely open and I had some of the  best  dives I have ever had. Then when I got  off the boat  on the 3rd day I started  feeling  very sick and very  dizzy. I didn't know what was  wrong with me, but when it didn't go away by the time I was  due to fly, I got very nervous  it was decompression sickness. This, unfortunately, was no matter to take lightly especially since the pressure  of me flying would  make it twice as  bad. So I made the very difficult decision to not get on  my plane to Vietnam and instead  go to the  hospital. 

The problem with decompression sickness is that the symptoms are  very  mild and the biggest  symptom they say is  denial. This is  because the symptoms are so mild  that  many people think it to be over exhaustion until it gets so bad and evident  they end up getting treated too  late. I would probably  have been in that category if  I didn't  have to fly, which stuck my concern. 

Being at the hospital, alone, in a foreign country  was probably one of the most scary  and lonely experiences I have had. They ran many tests, took x rays, and  in the end  decided that I would  have  to stay over night on a mask feeding me a constant 100%  oxygen. There were times when I just wanted to break down and cry, but I instead kept reminding myself that the only thing this will all do is help me to feel  better  and that I am O.K. and it is not the end of the world. In the end I had to stay an extra week in Australia, of which I mostly slept and read. I discovered that when I don't feel well  it's ok not to be social, that I can get through anything by going with the flow, that sometimes  it  is a  really good decision to follow  my instincts, and that a small jar of peanut  butter, several bananas, and a  loaf of bread can feed me for 5 whole days..and now I am happy, healthy, safe, and  enjoying myself in Vietnam! ANNND I am still going to keep diving (in 6 months when it is safe to do so again, of  course) :)

A little leap back in time- my last couple weeks in Australia

I am now going to back track to fill in the gaps  of where I left you off in Australia. I had  been so busy that I didn't have  time to write and then when I got to the airport (the perfect place, I  had decided, to write my blog) I didn't actually end up flying and for the  next week I was, unfortunately, too sick to even consider writing...or really doing much of anything for that  matter. But,  I will explain all  of that a  little later. For now, just the good stuff!

My first stop after leaving the boys was into the outback to see the  world wonder  of  Uluru or in english, Ayers Rock. I didn't know  too much about Ayers Rock, but  after  much convincing from the boys and a desire to experience the true Australian outback, I was on my way! All I knew was that it was a big rock sticking out in the middle of nowhere  and that I was going to sleep in a swag, head exposed, under the stars. Honestly, the later part was the major draw for me. I arrived by plane to Ayers Rock airport in a tiny little plane. Although something recently has sparked a huge new found anxiety of flying, I was calmed a bit by the beautiful birds eye view I was able to see of Ayers Rock from the  plane window. Shortly after landing safely, I gathered my bags and headed outside where large buses  were  waiting to take us to the resort. The resort, a large almost  city-like operation in the  middle of nowhere, had everything you could possibly need or imagine as well as many different offerings for accommodations ranging from the budget backpackers dorms (where I stayed) to luxury suites. Although it was very nice, I felt as though I were trapped in the Truman show....needless to say, I was very happy  to leave for my 3 day  tour the next  day.   

On the tour we went to three different, beautiful sights. Our first day, we hiked around Ayers rock (Uluru) and  learned about its sacred sights.  Ayers rock is a large sandstone rock formation in the Northern Territory and is the worlds largest monolith and is very sacred to the Aboriginal people. That night we watched the sunset over Uluru. This was a much different  kind of sunset than I had ever seen before. Uluru, east from us, changed from brown to red to dark red, to purple, to purple\brown before fading into the black of the night...gorgeous. The next morning we woke early and watched the sunrise, this time over Uluru itself. This is only my second  time seeing a  sunrise (both times on my trip to Australia) and  I am hooked! It is so amazing to see the  sun make  its  first appearance to the day. To sit and watch nature in action in this way, gives me a new  deeper feeling of life...life, nature, is truly amazing. 

The next day we hiked around an even larger rock formation called the ogres. This hike was one of the most beautiful I have ever taken. And finally on the last day, we hiked by the  natural light of  the full moon to watch  the sunrise over King's Canyon. Thinking that I  had already excited my senses as much as they would allow, the first morning light hitting the canyon walls was like nothing I had ever  experienced  before.  Honestly, experiencing nature like  I did those three days allowed me to feel  completely my breath giving life to my body and heightened all of my senses like they have never been before. The best part about  the  whole experience, I fell asleep, in open air, star gazing. I  woke up in the middle of the night and drifted back to sleep once again under the beautiful night  sky, wishing on a shooting star...it was truly amazing.

Then it was off to the Great Barrier Reef for my final stop in Australia. My  dream of going to the  great barrier reef was  my reason for learning how to  dive in the first place, so as you can probably guess, I was very very excited! I chose to do a 3 day 2 night live aboard package with  12 dives including 2 night dives. To my luck I found that everything I hoped  for while  diving at this very special spot  came true...although I didn't even see one turtle! :( The reef was full of so much  life it was  amazing. There was beautiful soft coral, with little nemos and other cute fish hiding within them. I swam with  many reef sharks and crazy looking alien cuddlefish, schools of unicorn fish, hung a little too close to a triggerfish (although they do enjoy  attacking  at times I was really into my underwater photography  and didn't quite  consider their sometimes aggressive nature, but got lucky with a non attack), and lots of other  beautiful sea life. I feel  so lucky that I have the  ability to  witness  how life under the ocean exists and to see how each  fish coexists with the others. I can't wait  to  dive again!

Monday, March 26, 2012

A lesson in relaxing- Mekong river and Mui Ne beach, Vietnam

From everything that  I have experienced so far in Vietnam, the thing I love the most is that even with all the chaos (the two million or more motorbikes in Ho Chi Minh, the language barrier,  the beeping, and man is there beeping!), everything still feels so calm. The best part about this calming feeling is that it is contagious. I have been able to relax, take in nature, and be fine doing absolutely nothing since I have been here. Right now, I am sitting on the beach of Mui Ne, Vietnam, enjoying a coffee and listening to the waves crash. My  usual instinct is that I need to be doing something, and that something is wrong if I am not always going. But  looking around at the people of Vietnam, I see that they are  always working hard yet ALWAYS relaxing. Then I tried it, and by golly that is the secret! Always relax and have fun in everything you do. Don't think about the future or the past too much or you will not experience here and  now. The thing is, I have known this was a tough thing for me to do and something I have been trying to work on my whole trip, but something about Vietnam has made it almost impossible to revert back to my go,  go, go ways and I love it! Hopefully now I can just bring this home with me. 

Before coming to Mui Ne beach, I ended my stay in Ho Chi Minh city with a  two day trip to the Mekong Delta. The Mekong River is a long river that begins in China and passes through Thailand, Cambodia, and Loas, before fanning out to its delta in Vietnam and draining into the south Chhina sea. It is a very historical river that has great significance  in many wars and  leads to the livelihood of millions of people who live on its banks. All in all, it has been a place that I have wanted to see for a long time. What I really like about the Mekong tours in Vietnam,  is that they are  a lot less  touristy  than those in Thailand, for instance. In Vietnam, the floating markets that we get to see are the wholesale markets. They do not cater to tourists, but are  meant only for the Vietnamese who make  their living buying and selling  fruits and vegetables. Those families who sell fruits and vegetables on the river are like a middle man. They buy the product from the farmers and then turn and sell  it to those men and women  who have  fruit stands in the city markets. So those who have those market stands come to the floating market as early as 5 or 6 in the morning so that they can have the  fruits and vegetables ready for their day. It was so amazing and educational to see this playing out in front of me. 

I was also lucky enough to have my home stay bungalow right on the Mekong with a small porch to sit out on. Although we  had to leave the next day at 6 am to head to a  larger floating market on the river, I thought it would be a shame to not experience the Mekong from my porch so I woke up at 5 and sat outside, blanket around me, watching the boats full of fruits and vegetables head to the  floating market. I watched as my neighbors  across the river got up and started their morning routine, brushing their teeth as they crouched down over their porch spitting into the river, the woman beginning the days laundry by hand, and the man cutting up some wood to fix the side of the house. I felt so lucky that I was able to experience the pure, real  daily life of the Mekong people. 

Over the two days in the Mekong and now, as  I sit by the beach, waves breaking in the background, I am so grateful to Vietnam for allowing me to relax, experience, breathe...live. 

Friday, March 23, 2012

What the PHO?! I love you already Vietnam :)

Man have I had quite the crazy time since I have arrived in Vietnam. Last night my plane got in at about 9:30 but I got my visa on arrival and came in from Australia so I had to  wait for 2 hours with all the  others while I got the visa. I felt bad  because I had booked an airport transfer and he had been waiting the whole time for me...oops but I didn't feel all that bad because I was at least safe in this crazy city. And man is it crazy! There are 4 million people living in Ho Chi Minh and there are 2 million motorbikes!! It is crazy to see all of the motorbikes take over the street. While I was eating today I counted 22 motorbikes between 2 cars, the next time I counted there was 30! Walking across the street is fun though. You just have to take a deep breathe and walk slowly forward and all of the bikes just go around you. However, when it comes to cars, they still control the road and you cant just walk in front of them. I learned that the hard way when I was trying to walk across the street and a Vietnamese woman stuck her hand out in front of me and saved my life lol. 

When I finally got to my hostel  at midnight, my room ended up being at the very top, 7 flights of stairs up! By the  time I got to the top with my big rucksack, my legs were shaking. Everyone was already sleeping so I fiddled around in the dark and had to go on an adventure even to find the bathroom. Even though I was super tired,  I had met a couple people in the plane and hadn't had dinner yet, so I decided to join a guy from Australia for a bite to eat. Even at midnight (as I was eating my first delicious Vietnamese PHO) I could  already  tell  that I was going to love Vietnam! The sights, the sounds, the smells, I love  it all!

Since I was sick for the last week, it has put me on a pretty tight schedule so I had to do a bit of unexpected planning and start my exploration of the city right away. The next day I woke up bright and early and headed to the chu chi tunnels that are left over from first the French then the Vietnam war. This was a really interesting experience. It was really crazy to see how the Vietnamese people had to live during that time and their view of the war. At times I even felt guilty for being American. All in all it was a really rewarding experience. 

After the tunnels, I headed to the War Rememberants Museum. Here I viewed as many heart wrenching photos and stories as I could physically take. The  part of the  museum that stuck  me the hardest was were they showed the continuing effects of Agent Orange on the Vietnamese population...devastating.

I decided after the museum that, even though I had no map, I would find my way back to my hostel in VERY busy Ho Chi Minh city. I guess in the months of travel and self-discovery, my stubbornness and determination has still held strong...so I am now taking it as a sticking point in my personality and not such a bad one, I have decided. So, needless to say, I had an interesting and fun experience getting lost and then found over and over on the way where I arrived safely back to my hostel just before dark. What a great day  in a  wonderful city! 

Wednesday, March 7, 2012

Another chapter comes to a close and into the Outback I go!

I have spent the last three weeks with Dave and Warren in Australia. It was such a wonderful experience and they took such good care of me! We have camped, hug out with their families, partied, BBQed, did all the necessary sightseeing...you name it, we did it!

 And now, as I am sitting in the Sydney airport about to fly to Ayers Rock and they are continuing their drive to Brisbane, I am left with a happy yet sad feeling. I didn't know what to expect when I stepped off the plane in Melbourne 3 weeks ago, but any expectations I did have for this leg of my trip have not only been met, but greatly surpassed! I am so happy for all the great times we had and the time that we were able to spend together. It is not everyday that you meet such amazing people. I met them in Seattle while they were traveling the United States and Canada and we had talked about meeting up in Australia. Often I talk to people about meeting up here or there, but rarely do we go through with it and even more rarely with such ease traveling together...it was really an amazing experience. Thus, bringing me to the sad part. Saying goodbye made me a little teary-eyed! It's OK though, it just means I will have to go visit them on their next adventure in the UK! 

The last days with the boys were in Sydney for Marti Gras....WHAT A PARTY! When they had first told me about the event, I didn't really know what I was getting into, but thought...marti gras in Sydney, why not...little did I know it was going to be the happiest, sweatiest, dance until my feet fall off, gay celebration I will ever go to! All I have to say is WOW. 

Sydney: The most beautiful and quaint city I have run into so far. We were lucky with a couple beautiful days to explore the city. The Sydney harbor is everything that the pictures and postcards say it is. The crystal clear waters, beautiful artistic Oprah house, cute historical buildings, and as many surf beaches as you can dream of having in a city, definitely make it one to put in the books.  I even ate a kangaroo burger! I have seen snakes, spiders, and about 30 koalas, but no kangaroo! I thought if I haven't seen one I might as well eat one...and it's not so bad. (Hopefully I will see a real kangaroo in my days in the outback).

Now I am off on my own again and going through the old routine of nerves and fears and excitement. I call this a new chapter because I feel that my trip is split into 3 parts, with traveling with the boys being one part on its own. It is hard to put in words, but living these experiences back to back I am really able to uncover how my body reacts to the different situations of traveling alone and traveling with friends.  I also feel that through this I am able to know myself more and control my feelings and actions...I don't know if that makes sense. 

I arrived yesterday to a place called Ayers Rock (which is what I came all this way to see) and before I embark on my 3 day swag trip I am staying the night at the Ayers Rock Resort. I almost feel as though I am in the Truman Show in this resort. Ayers Rock is a gigantic natural rock formation in the middle of the outback. Since there is nothing, I mean nothing, else around, they built a huge, almost city like, resort near the natural wonder to accommodate all the tourists . I feel as though I am stuck in a fake reality smack dab in the middle of nowhere! It's bizarrely fun yet unnerving.  

Now it is the morning I leave for my outback adventure and I am writing this blog over a coffee in this weird little resort oasis in the middle of a huge barren desert and for the first time since I arrived yesterday, I am relaxed. My advice to myself, which I hope I can master by the time I get home...enjoy the moment! Don't think, don't worry, just enjoy. On my trip so far I have found that I worry about so many things even though I have nothing that I need to worry about. I think...ok, I know, that it is in my nature to always have to be moving, worrying, planning, but doing that takes away so much from life. I am about to sleep under a complete horizon to horizon stretch of the most amazing southern sky stars that I will probably ever see in my life. My challenge that I am giving myself, clear my mind of worries, fears, and thoughts of what is going to come next. Just enjoy the experience....

See you in three days!